Bustles came into vogue after the crinoline--or bell shaped hoop skirt--vanished from fashion; and they were designed to suggest that women were in fact swans. A slim, elegant front view gave way to a flotilla at the rear; and this was deemed graceful, particularly when a lady was gliding about a ballroom.
Bustles were made of varying materials--pads filled with goose down or horsehair; cages formed of steel; I even found one in the Met collection that is woven of cane and rattan. The metal cages were the ultimate in modernity, because they were hinged, and collapsed neatly when the wearer decided to sit. Women would wear different bustles during their various dress changes of the day, depending on activities they pursued and the type of dress worn.
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| Phantom Bustle, 1885, LACMA |
Jennie reportedly wore a Phantom Bustle for the Queen's Jubilee that was a sort of gag garment--hidden within the cage was a small music box that played "God Save the Queen" everytime she sat down. It was a great parlor joke that year, 1887.
In this image, you can see how the bustle paired with the corset beneath a gown.
And here's the rattan and cane one from the Met.
For more images from THAT CHURCHILL WOMAN, visit the Pinterest board behind the novel.
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